With his Per Se restaurant in New York finally reopened after a kitchen fire, Thomas Keller has the French Laundry back to business as well, opening its doors last week after a $1.8 million remodel. The SF Chronicle has taken the opportunity to do a sort of “compare and contrast” exercise on the two extolled eateries, listing the differences in decor, square footage, even projected revenues. As may be expected, Per Se exudes a characteristic New York indulgence while Yountville’s French Laundry retains its intimate Napa Valley quality.