The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation includes a telling of the early days of Chez Panisse, perhaps a little too telling as it includes scenes of drug use, open relationships, a paring knife stabbing, and the ingredients list for “consommé marijuana.” Well, it was the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s after all. Vanity Fair has this entire lengthy section online. (via David Lebovitz who spent 12 years in their pastry dept.)