The N.Y. Times sent Krishnendu Ray, professor of food studies at NYU, to seven local Indian restaurants. His reactions reveal snippets of immigrant expectations and cravings for tastes of home. The place I was most interested in hearing about had the shortest report, Indowok with its Indian-style Chinese cuisine. Ray’s comment: “Why don’t they just go to Chinatown? For one, it’s not sure to be vegetarian. For another, it’s just too Chinese.” (Where I live now, that niche is filled by Inchin’s Bamboo Garden.)