Per Se came through its NY Times review with no less than four stars. The vegetarian tasting menu clinched it for new restaurant critic Frank Bruni, who, despite acknowledging that this French Laundry offspring is a “preening, peacock-vain newcomer,” was compelled ultimately by what everyone else is: the sheer perfection of the food. The Thomas Keller trademarked perfectionism struck Bruni’s tastebuds in a consummate rendition of potato salad, more so than the much lauded butter-poached lobster. He still recalls the first “insanely happy” and last “ineffably sad” bite of a truffle risotto. The food left an emotional mark, with mastery, to gain the top honors.